Assaulted and Insulted

Katherine Warner
EVWP Summer 2009


Sweaty and scorched, we lugged our cumbersome boards down the sandy road, climbed the hot sand dune, and longed for a peek at what lay beyond. The wide- spread ocean was a collection of sparkling gems. Its crystal blue was deep and mesmerizing. The waves lazily lifted and crashed on the shore. A light breeze tugged at our hair. The water beckoned us and promised relief. The sun shone warmly on our faces.

Sean had us toss our boards down in the sand delaying the gratification of the cooling water. It was easy to see he longed to take a dip like the rest of us. Quickly he instructed us on the simple steps of surfing. “First, you will see the wave behind you, and then you will paddle hard. Next you will feel the wave catch your board, and finally you will pop up and ride.”

Lauren and Tiffany, first time surfers, were satisfied with this explanation and preceded to the water. Being an expert beginner of two “crash and burn” experiences and an hour of U-tube surfer training videos, I was reasonably confident and rushed to the water behind them.

I should note that once we approached the water I slowly realized that the waves were intimidating and massive. I thought they might be too strong for inexperienced surfers. I decided to consult someone with a little more experience. “Sean, do you think these waves are too rough for us?” I asked.

“No way!” he said with confidence. “They are perfect!” he smilingly assured me.

Still being doubtful I noted, “The last time I went it was calmer and it was still challenging.”

Curtis, Sean’s best friend, chimed in, “I learned in rougher conditions than this.”

I reflected on my limited experience. I began to convince myself that I was wrong. They were probably right. I still needed a little more convincing. I looked around and saw others that surfed with ease. I put my worries aside.

Fighting in the hard-hitting waves to reach the point beyond the break the five of us laughed. Strong-minded we pressed forward. Lauren spent her summers as nanny at the beach. She suggested diving under the waves to use less energy and lose less ground. Lauren, Tiffany, and I fought to make it past where the waves were breaking. Lauren’s strong body got her past the break on her own. Sean helped his wife, Tiffany push through.

Each wave seemed a little more determined to keep me back. I could no longer reach the ocean floor. I struggled and battled the waves. Forced back by the uncompromising current, I gritted my teeth and fought harder. Patiently my fellow surfers waited for me beyond the break. Sean passed his boogie board off to Curtis and came back to help me pull through. He got behind the board and pushed as I kicked. Finally, exhausted from the fight I sat on the board. Allowing my legs to dangle into the water, I tried to shake the jitters of exhaustion and excitement.

I bobbed up and down on soothing hills of water. Lauren joked that she would stay out forever because of all the hard work getting here. We all laughed. Peaceful dips and bobs brought me closer to the dreaded break. I laid flat on my belly and paddled farther out to sea. I knew I only had one shot to catch the perfect wave, and I intended on taking my time.

As I paddled out a large wave rose in front of me and broke. My board’s nose pointed vertically and then tipped over, violently slammed me on my back and plunged me deep into the water. Disoriented, dazed, and lost, I was held under mercilessly. I longed to breathe. I told myself any minute now. Here it was. I popped my head up to take a breath. Apparently, it was precisely the wrong time. Another strong wave broke right on my face and forced me back into the abyss. My mind raced. I was confused, scared, and angry. I could not possibly hold my breath another second. I begged the waves to release me from their tight jerking grip.

Sand scraped my knees, and it was over. I gulped in air. I pulled myself to my feet coughing, shaking, and breathing intensely. I trudged to the shore realizing the current had carried us far from our spot down the beach. I grabbed the board and put it in the sand. I sat facing the ocean.

Tears and snot ran down my face, and my body shook. I shielded my face from the ocean. A couple passed me walking in the waves. Please ignore me, I prayed. My prayer was answered when they kept walking. I sat for a time that seemed endless and tried to rationalize the emotions that had taken control.

Noticing that I did not return, Sean came out of the water dragging his boogie board. He saw my tear streaked face and tenderly asked, “Are you ok?”

I nodded.

“You just got Waterfalled. It can be scary.” he gently assured me. When I did not respond he sat and put his hand softly on my shoulder. I turned and looked at his concerned face. He opened his mouth then hesitated. He sat for a minute and then leaned toward me and asked, “Can I use your surfboard?”
“Uhhh,” I examined his face and put the pieces together. I slowly responded, “Sure.”